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Common Problems With Toilets And How to Fix Them

Common Problems With Toilets And How to Fix Them

A Step-by-Step Guide

What’s in the Article

Toilets seem to choose the most inconvenient times to act up, so knowing what the common problems with toilets and how to fix them are, will relieve some of the stress.

How to Unclog a Blocked Toilet

If the bowl is full and you have all those little turdies floating around, do not flush the toilet again. You will have an overflowing toilet bowl and the contents will spill over onto the floor. Mega yuck!

Aaaaaarrrrgh!

Close the door, make some tea, and then dig out some old clothes, find some old towels, and start collecting the stuff needed to sort it out. Clogging is one of the most common problems with toilets and also potentially the messiest.

Items Needed at Various Stages

  • Buckets x 2 (any large receptacles will do)
  • Rubber gloves
  • Bowl, jug, or empty jar
  • Old towels
  • Cup to measure with
  • Piece of stiff wire, like a coat hanger (only if the first methods don’t work)
  • Wire cutters (to cut the coat hanger or wire)
  • Duct tape (to put over the end of the wire)
  • Toilet plunger (if you have one, but not essential)
  • Toilet snake (if you have one, but not essential)
  • Visor (not necessary, but often there can be splash-back when using a plunger)

Items NOT Needed

Chemical toilet cleaners. They are dangerous, corrosive, and have some very nasty fumes. Who wants that in the water system or damaging the plumbing?

Unclogging a Toilet Without a Plunger

1. Using Dishwashing Liquid

Dishwashing liquid works very well for unclogging a toilet.
Dishwashing liquid works very well.

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Scoop out as much water from the bowl as you can into one of the buckets.

• Pour about a quarter cup of washing up liquid into the water at the bottom of the bowl. 

• Let it stand for about 15 minutes.

• Follow with a bucket full of hot, not boiling, water. Boiling water can crack the porcelain. 

• Stop pouring if the water is not going down. 

• Let it stand for about half an hour to see if the hot water breaks down the blockage.

• If not, you will have to get another bucket ready.

• Scoop as much water out as you can and try the process again.

If that doesn’t work, then you will have to get that piece of wire ready, or try method #2.

2. Using Baking Soda and Vinegar

Baking soda and vinegar will fizz like crazy.

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Scoop out as much water from the bowl as you can into one of the buckets.

• Pour a cup of baking soda into the water that’s left in the bowl.

• Add 2 cups of vinegar on top of that.

• There will be a whole lot of fizzing going on!

• Let it sit for half an hour to an hour.

• Flush the toilet and see if the blockage has come loose.

If it hasn’t, reach for the wire.

3. Using a Piece of Wire

Please don’t nick anyone’s fencing wire.

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Scoop out as much water from the bowl as you can into one of the buckets.

• Straighten the piece of wire or coat hanger and put some duct tape securely around the sharp end.

• Push the padded end down the toilet so as not to damage the bowl or pipe.

• You will have to push and wiggle to get it round the bends.

• When it hits the blockage and stops, start poking with the wire to break the blockage up.

• Once it’s clear, pour some dishwashing liquid down the outlet pipe and follow with a bucket of hot, not boiling, water.

4. Using a Toilet Snake

Basically, a toilet snake is just a length of tightly coiled wire that’s quite springy and has a handle that you can twist.

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Scoop out as much water from the bowl as you can into one of the buckets.

• Start feeding the snake into the outlet pipe, twisting it as you go to get it round the bends.

• Push it in until it won’t go any further.

• Start twisting the snake to break up the blockage, or to snag whatever is causing the blockage.

• Withdraw the snake carefully once the toilet bowl starts to drain.

• Remove anything tangled up in the coils and dispose of it in the bin.

• When it’s clear, pour some dishwashing liquid down the outlet pipe and follow with a bucket of hot, not boiling, water.

5. Using Plastic Wrap

See if this works for you.

I’ve tried this and it didn’t work for me, but if you’re desperate, anything is worth a try. Right? 

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Make sure that there is at least half a toilet bowl of water or more in the toilet.

• Put a few layers of plastic wrap over the toilet bowl to seal the top.

• Start pushing up and down on the plastic wrap rapidly to compress the air trapped in the toilet.

The idea is that the pressure will dislodge the blockage and push it down. Let me know if it worked for you.

Unclogging a Toilet With a Plunger 

Wear a visor to prevent possible splash-back hitting you in the face.
(Note: Image is used for illustrative purposes only. The individual featured is a model.)

Use a concertina or ball and flange toilet plunger, not a drain plunger. You may want to put a visor on for this one, or just take your chances.

• Lift the seat.

• Lay some of the old towels on the floor around the toilet.

• Scoop water out until you have a half-full toilet bowl.

• Tip the plunger on its side to fill the cup with water.

• Place the plunger over the hole and use the water pressure in the cup to force the blockage down. 

• About 10 vigorous pushing and pulling on the plunger will likely unclog the toilet as long as the seal is good between the outlet pipe and the plunger.  

It may take several attempts to clear it completely. 

Cleaning Up

You got this!

• Pour the contents of the bucket into the toilet and flush away.

• Clean all of the utensils with disinfectant and soap.

• Dispose of anything that may have been pulled up from the pipe either with the wire, snake, or plunger.

• Wipe up any spills with the old towels and put them to soak in disinfectant before washing.

• Clean the toilet with a brush and some baking soda and a good squirt of vinegar all around the inside.

• Make some more tea and go and lie down for a bit.

Note: Never allow anything to be thrown into the toilet that isn’t toilet paper, liquid, or poo. 

Even if the blurb on wipes says that you can flush them down the loo, it’s not strictly true. (Gosh, I should be a poet.) Put sanitary products, wipes, cigarette butts, and anything else in a small bin next to the toilet.

Final Words on Clogged Toilets

By far, clogging is one of the most common problems with toilets. If nothing works, call a plumber. The last thing you want is to damage the pipes with continuous prodding and probing and causing a far bigger problem.

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How to Stop a Toilet From Running

The sound of a continuously running toilet
Recognize that sound?

Either it’s a water outlet problem, or the float is set too high. Constant running is another common problem with toilets and this is how to fix it.

Things Needed

Toilets With a Tank 

Tankless toilets need a whole other way of doing things, so we will concentrate on toilets with a tank for now.

Start by lifting the lid up and have a look inside.

1. The Float Height is Faulty

• If the tank is full, but water is still running over the top of the overflow tube, then the float needs adjusting.

• Turn the water off at the wall to the side of the toilet. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty)

• Flush the toilet to empty the tank.

• Find the maximum water level on the inside back of the tank.

• Dry the surface and mark it with a black marker to make it more visible.

• If there is no mark, then measure just under half a thumb length (1 inch/2.5 cm) down from the top of the overflow pipe and draw a line.

• Squeeze the clip on the float and move it down the rod a little way.

• Turn the tap back on, fill the tank, and check to see where the water level stops.

• If the level stops on or a bit below your mark, all well and fine. 

• If it doesn’t, adjust the height of the float until it does.

Older toilets: The ball-shaped float will be on a metal arm. Use a screwdriver to turn the screw that attaches the arm to the fill valve. Make a quarter turn anticlockwise to lower the arm. Fill the tank again and check the level. Continue with the previous steps until the water level is correct.

2. The Flapper Chain is Too Long

If the chain connected to the handle and the flapper is too long, it could wrap around the flapper and keep it open.

• Turn the water off at the wall to the side of the toilet. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty)

• Flush the toilet to empty the tank.

• Adjust the chain so that there is only a bit of slack when the flapper is closed, not too much.

• Use the wire cutters to cut the excess chain off at the top. Leave about an inch (2.5 cm) free.

This leaves a bit of room for adjustments, but no chance of the chain getting tangled around the flapper again.

If the toilet still runs after adjusting the chain, then the flapper or flush valve is faulty and will need replacing. (see below)

How to Repair a Leaky Flush Valve

Water leaks into the bowl constantly and can be an annoying problem, besides the cost in water, of course. The flush valve seat is the hole at the bottom of the tank. This is one of the more fiddly jobs within the common problems with toilets subject.

Things Needed

  • Universal flush valve repair kit (includes a new flapper, drain seat insert, and a sealant ring)
  • Wire cutters
  • Sponge
  • Bucket
  • Small scrubbing brush
  • Soft cloth
  • Small towel

What to Do Next

• Turn the tap off at the wall on the side of the toilet. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty)

• Flush the toilet to empty the tank.

• Sponge out any remaining water.

• Unhook the chain on the flapper from the flush lever.

• Slip the flapper and bracket off the overflow pipe.

• Be very careful not to allow anything to fall into the exposed pipe opening and possibly cause a blockage.

• Clean the exposed flush valve seat with soap and a small scrubbing brush. 

• Wipe it clean with a cloth and dry thoroughly with a small towel. It must be absolutely clean and dry, or the sealant ring may not stick properly and it will all have to be done again.

• Open the repair kit and lay the contents out on a dry towel, or cloth.

• Peel the paper off only one side of the sealant ring.

• Center it carefully over the dry valve seat.

• Press it down lightly.

• Leave the paper on the top side for now.

• Position the flapper assembly in the hole to see how best to put it in.

• The chain should be as close to the handle lever as possible and should either pull straight up or be angled slightly back towards the hinge of the flapper assembly.

• When you are happy with the positioning, remove the flapper assembly with one hand and peel the paper off the top of the sealant ring with the other.

• Place the flapper assembly carefully over the sealant ring in the proper position.

• Press down firmly.

• With the flapper closed, push the flush lever down and attach the chain.

• Release the flush lever.

• There must only be a small amount of slack.

• Snip the excess chain off leaving about an inch (2.5 cm) of chain for possible adjustments.

• Turn the tap back on and fill the tank.

• Flush the toilet and check that the chain is the correct length for proper flushing.

How to Repair Leaks or Sweats From the Toilet Tank

Constant dripping on the floor could damage the sub-flooring.

Is the tank sweating or leaking? Put food coloring into the tank and leave for an hour or so. Touch a tissue to the bolts underneath the tank. If it comes away with food coloring on it, there is a leak. Otherwise, the tank is sweating.

Preventing Tank Sweats

Sweating occurs when the cold water in the tank causes warm, humid air to condense on the outside and drip onto the floor.

Items Needed 

  • Ready-made liner or half-inch thick insulating material
  • Small brush with a handle
  • Baking soda
  • Vinegar
  • Sponge
  • Bucket
  • Hairdryer
  • Utility knife
  • Rubber cement or silicone glue
  • Glue spreader

What to do Next

• Get a ready-made liner or half-inch thick insulating material that can be cut to fit. Ask someone at the hardware store which one is best for the job.

• Turn the tap off at the wall next to the toilet. (Lefty loosey, righty tighty)

• Flush the toilet to empty the tank.

• Mix some baking soda with a small amount of vinegar and wipe onto the sides of the tank.

• Let it sit for about 15 minutes or so.

• Give the sides a good scrub with a brush to get rid of the rust stains and any other build-up.

• Rinse off with some clean water.

• Flush again to get rid of the added water.

• Sponge the tank dry to remove all of the water.

• Use a hairdryer to dry the inside of the tank thoroughly.

• Cut holes for the flusher handle and to fit around the parts at the bottom.

Watch your fingers – always cut away from your hand.

• Check that the liner doesn’t interfere with any moving parts.

• Glue the insulation in place.

• Wait 24 hours before refilling the tank.

Repairing a Leak From the Tank Mounting Bolts 

You’ll find them inside the tank at the bottom. They connect the tank to the toilet bowl.

Items Needed

What to do Next

• Turn the tap off at the wall next to the toilet. (Lefty loosey, righty tightly)

• Flush the toilet to empty the tank.

• Sponge the tank dry.

• Get someone to hold the bolt steady with a screwdriver or adjustable wrench, whichever fits best.

• Remove the nut under the bowl with a socket wrench.

• If it won’t budge, then spray with some penetrating oil like WD-40 or 3-in-One and leave for an hour or more.

• Remove the bolt, slip off the metal washers and the old rubber washers. 

• Put the metal washer back onto the bolt and then the new rubber washer.

• Put the bolt back through the hole.

• Slip the second rubber washer onto the bolt and then the other metal washer before threading the nut back on.

• Get your helper to hold the bolt steady again.

• Tighten the nut under the bowl with a socket wrench. Don’t overtighten, it could crack the porcelain.

• Turn the water back on and check for leaks.

If it’s still leaking, tighten the nut just a little more.

How To Select The Right Glue For The Job

How to Fix or Replace a Toilet Seat 

Sometimes all that’s required is to find the nuts underneath the back of the toilet bowl and tighten them. This will stop a seat from sliding around or wobbling. Don’t over tighten otherwise it could damage the porcelain.

Items Needed

  • Socket wrench
  • Penetrating oil (if metal bolts are corroded)
  • Hacksaw (if metal bolts are too corroded to move)
  • Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
  • New toilet seat (take the old seat with you to get the right shape)
  • Two new fastening nuts and bolts (if the old ones can’t be reused)

How to Use a Hacksaw

Pick the Right Tools For Your First Toolbox

Replacing a Broken Seat 

• Use a socket wrench to unscrew the nuts underneath the back of the toilet bowl.

• Remove the bolts that hold the old seat in place. 

• If the bolts are metal and have corroded, drench the nuts with penetrating oil. The safest penetrating oils to use for health and the environment are 3-in-One and WD-40.

• Check the bolts after an hour, or leave overnight. 

• If they still won’t budge, raise the toilet lid and seat.

• Mask the rim of the bowl with cardboard to avoid scratching it. 

• Saw through the bolts with a hacksaw.

• Clean in and around the bolt holes. 

• Coat the bolts of the new seat with petroleum jelly to facilitate future removal.

• Fasten the new seat in place, making sure not to over tighten the nuts or the porcelain could crack.

Wrapping It Up

Once you have the right tools and the correct guides, what may seem like a complicated job suddenly becomes a whole lot easier. This how-to about common problems with toilets and how to fix them will be your main go-to when things start to go wrong in the ‘throne room’.

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©Kerry Biddle 2020

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