Wild Asparagus: A Forager's Delight in the South of France

Wild Asparagus: A Forager’s Delight in the South of France

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Wild asparagus (Asparagus acutifolius) is of the same family as the asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) that we find in the markets and supermarkets, but the spears are much thinner, can have a slightly bitter taste if eaten raw, and are far more delicate in flavour when cooked. The leaves are sharp and prickly, hence the ‘acutifolius’ classification.

Foraged wild asparagus — A successful foraging trip.

The almond trees have finished flowering and are full of new leaves. The fruit trees are more cautious and are only now allowing their buds to swell as the weather warms towards spring.

Theirs are not the only buds swelling in anticipation of spring. The wild asparagus (Asparagus acutifolius) has started to pop up all over the south of France, offering the much sought after shoots that the Provençal French love to put into omelettes and quiches.

When to Start Looking for Wild Asparagus

February is eagerly awaited for when the first spears start pushing through the prickly foliage, but don’t make the gaffe of asking a Provençal person where they collect their wild asparagus. The foraging areas are as jealously guarded as the mushroom-picking wedges of forest.

The start of the asparagus season can be delayed until March if the weather has not been favourable though, so go out and check your favourite areas after a shower of rain so as not to miss the best picking times.

By April it all over, although I have found some spears in the hedges in May, but not in such great numbers.

Where to Find Wild Asparagus

In France, the wild asparagus ferns are limited to the Mediterranean, Corsica, and only the driest inland areas.

Look for the ferns in lightly forested areas, usually at the base of a tree, but more widespread if the trees are slightly thicker. They also grow in scrubland, under pines, and in urban hedges. You will also find the fern proliferating after a fire has gone through the area.

They like dry land with sandy soil. The plants won’t grow easily in tall, thick undergrowth though. For this the wild boars are essential. They dig up the undergrowth when foraging for roots, allowing the wild asparagus ferns to establish themselves in the cleared ranges.

Wild boars clear the undergrowth. — Wild boars clear the undergrowth and the asparagus can grow unimpeded.

What to Look for

At first, you may not see many spears, but once your eye gets accustomed to what to look for and where, your rate of success will increase. Inspect the base of the plant and tease out the new shoots from the spiny leaves guarding them. Cast your eyes over the top of the plant to find the longer shoots with the bud at the end.

The black berries are toxic, but they usually only come out in autumn and won’t pose a danger to children who may be tempted to try them.

How to Pick Wild Asparagus

Snap the stems off where they break naturally. This way you will end up with the tender shoots and leave the bitter tougher stems behind. Don’t yank on the plant, otherwise you will damage it and no more shoots will grow. Tread gently and leave only footprints.

What Wild Asparagus Tastes Like

Wild asparagus spears are tender and juicy with a distinct asparagus flavour. The older, tougher parts of the stalk can become quite bitter.

What to do With Wild Asparagus

You can steam the spears lightly and serve with a sauce or in a salad, or fry them lightly in olive oil and use to garnish soups and risottos. I have baked them into a quiche before, but I really do prefer them in a scramble or omelette like many of the Provençals eat them.

Scrambled eggs with tomato and wild asparagus. — Scrambled eggs with wild asparagus and tomato.

The raw spears can be sprinkled onto a salad for an interesting change.

Freezing is a good way of preserving a bumper harvest. Blanch the spears briefly, dry them, and then freeze in a small bag or container.

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Recipe for Wild Asparagus Quiche

Ingredients

Pastry base
3 eggs
300ml milk (just over a cup)
Salt to taste
Good handful wild asparagus
1 tomato

Method

Preheat the oven to 200˚C (392˚F). Roll the pastry out on a floured surface and position it over the pie plate. Make sure there is a good overhang when you trim the excess pastry off, because the pastry shell will shrink. Prick the bottom all over with a fork.

Put a sheet of baking parchment over the bottom of the pastry and pour in some raw rice or dried beans to weigh it down. Pop it into the oven for 15 minutes. Remove the parchment with the rice or beans and bake the pastry for another 5 minutes.

Beat the eggs and milk together with salt. Lay the wild asparagus spears over the base of the pastry shell. Put the tomato slices in and pour the egg mixture over the top. Bake in a medium oven at 180˚C (375˚F) until the egg has set – about half an hour. Serve hot or cold with a salad.